Choosing Sustainable Seafood
By Lisa Kelly, Development Director, Hackensack Riverkeeper

Two years ago, Hackensack Riverkeeper ran its first-ever Sustainable SeafoodFest, a benefit that features seafood exclusively from sustainable fisheries. The theme not only drew enthused seafood lovers to support our work, but it spurred countless inquiries and conversations about sustainable seafood.

Sustainable seafood refers to fish and shellfish that is harvested without depleting or permanently damaging the species, other species or the waterway. So when we spend our money on fish for dinner, we can – and should – choose seafood that is “sustainable.” Generally, there are four issues that affect seafood sustainability.

• Overfishing. 70 percent of the world’s major fisheries are overfished or on the brink of being overfished, according to the World Wildlife Fund.

• Bycatch. Seabirds, marine mammals, turtles and juveniles of the targeted species that are captured in nets or fishing lines are typically discarded dead at sea. An estimated 27 million tons of fish and shellfish, or one-quarter of the global fishery catch, is unintentionally killed each year.

• Habitat damage. Trawl nets damage bottom habitat, coral reefs and sediment dwelling species. An area about twice the size of the lower 48 United States is dredged or dragged by bottom trawling vessels annually, often destroying critical fish habitat, according to The Marine Fish Conservation Network.

• Aquaculture. Aquaculture is the farming of fish and shellfish. According to the United Nations, about one-quarter of the seafood consumed worldwide is farm-raised. Aquaculture’s environmental impact varies depending on the species. Salmon farms are notorious for discharging untreated waste, uneaten food and antibiotics into surrounding waters. But farms that are contained inland may have minimal impact. Native clam, mussel and oyster farms are also sustainable as shellfish are filter feeders and actually clean the surrounding water.

There are several organizations that work diligently to evaluate and monitor fisheries and they publish guides for both industry and consumers to assist in seafood purchasing. Among them are http://www.thefishlist.org and http://www.ecofish.com.

Hackensack Riverkeeper is extremely fortunate to have Whole Foods Market, a natural and organic foods supermarket chain with 181 stores in North America and the United Kingdom, as a supporter. Whole Foods Market works closely with the Marine Stewardship Council, an international non-profit organization that provides a globally respected certification to fisheries that meet strict, independently reviewed standards of sustainability. Ellie Spray, marketing team leader at the Ridgewood, NJ store, is on Hackensack Riverkeeper’s Board of Trustees and has been integral to planning the annual Sustainable SeafoodFest.

Whole Foods catered the cocktail hour of Hackensack Riverkeeper’s 2005 Sustainable SeafoodFest with sustainable shrimp and salmon, the main course was provided by the hotel where the event was held. Hackensack Riverkeeper had given the hotel’s catering staff a list of acceptable sustainable seafood options for the main course. The chef proposed salmon – but it was from the Atlantic, an unsustainable fishery. (Wild salmon from Alaska is the better, sustainable choice.) Last-minute negotiations with the chef resulted in a delicious – and sustainable – herb-encrusted mahi-mahi.

As Hackensack Riverkeeper learned, if you are committed to sustainable seafood, you have to ask, double-check and, finally, speak with your wallet. Markets respond to consumer demand. Today, sustainable seafood is probably where organic food was ten or 15 years ago. Before long—if we speak up—we’ll be able to choose sustainable seafood as readily as we can buy a quart of organic milk.