Leading the Way to Better Wine and a Healthy Watershed
By Don McEnhill, Russian Riverkeeper
Photos by Russian Riverkeeper

When I was a kid, Healdsburg, CA, was like many small agricultural towns. When I went fishing on winter days I always had a good chance of catching a wild Steelhead Trout in the emerald Russian River. But today, it can take a month after a rainstorm before the muddy sediments settle out of the water, the river clears and the Steelhead return.

Healdsburg and the once sleepy Russian River watershed have experienced explosive growth since the 1980’s when winemakers discovered that our soils and climate produce great wines on par with the best labels of neighboring Napa Valley. The Russian River wineries trace their heritage back to Russian colonists who first planted grapes in 1812. Today, vineyards cover more than 50,000 acres and the wine industry is Sonoma County’s primary economic force, generating an estimated $1 billion each year.

The wine industry is also the single most important influence on the environmental health of the watershed. In 2003, Russian Riverkeeper conducted a stormwater monitoring study to determine pollutant loads in the middle reach of the river during three varying storm intensities. During a minor flood event, we were surprised to discover that we were detecting a chronically toxic herbicide, Simazine, in small streams below vineyards and in the main stem of the river – Healdsburg’s drinking water supply. We also found that nutrient and sediment loads were tens of times higher than water quality standards in most vineyard area tributary streams.

The Russian River is polluted from runoff carrying sediment and pollution from the vineyards and countless miles of dirt roads. These sediments bury streams, cover spawning gravels and literally choke fish to death – think of breathing in a dust storm. Fertilizers, herbicides and pesticides used by some grape growers create serious threats to water quality and fish. In 2003, grape growers used more than 3.2 million pounds of active pesticide ingredients.

Russian Riverkeeper, and its predecessor Friends of the Russian River, have worked closely with winemakers since 1994 to identify sources of pollution, devise solutions and, when necessary, take enforcement action on bad actors. We work closely with winemakers to support organic farming, integrated pest management and other approaches that reduce or eliminate pesticides and chemical fertilizers. And with the cooperation of some truly innovative and committed winemakers, we have made real progress protecting the river, and perhaps even improving the wine. But we continue to see problems every time it rains.

One very beneficial attribute of wine lovers, for watershed protection, is that they judge wines based on subtle flavors and taste nuances expressed in the French term “terrior.” Terrior is a reflection of the local soils, climate and grape varietal that give wine its unique taste. Many grape growers and winemakers know that everything they do in the vineyard affects those subtle flavors and potentially interferes with the wine’s terrior – and its price! One very large winery was taken to task by their new French owners who, with their centuries-old winemaking traditions, were horrified that the chemicals would change the very nature of the soil and permanently affect the flavor of the grapes. The terrior, in this case, made the strongest argument for sustainability.

In the past, pumice, the leftovers from pressed grapes, were simply piled along waterways during rainy season. In spring they were then turned into the fields. Russian Riverkeeper documented numerous cases where the highly-acidic pumice runoff lowered pH levels in streams, damaging fish habitat. So, in 2003, we helped shape the first waste discharge requirements for wineries. That led to better wastewater controls and requirements that pumice stockpiles be covered and located at least 50 feet from streams.

Wineries require huge amounts of water to process grapes. That, coupled with arcane state water law and almost no enforcement, presents another major challenge. Many once-productive juvenile fish rearing streams are now dry in summer, even in the wettest years, because of diversions for irrigation. In 2004, a very dry spring led to a municipal water supply crisis in the upper watershed. The local government estimated that if the 10,000 acre-feet of water that was illegally appropriated from the Russian River was returned, the crisis would not have occurred. Russian Riverkeeper identified and compiled the legal water rights holders on a CD to assist enforcement officials check compliance and prosecute illegal diversions.

Many winemakers are compelled to produce on every inch of land to satisfy unknowing shareholders far away. Streamside riparian forests are vital habitat for juvenile salmon. These transition areas give vital shade, keep water cool, filter polluted runoff and provide food sources for juvenile fish. When winegrowers clear these forests and plant right up to the riverbanks they increase runoff from fields and cause bank erosion. Winegrowers may dump rock and riprap to attempt to stabilize eroding banks. Two years ago while patrolling the river I caught a vineyard illegally dumping fill in the river and later found out that the California Retired Teachers Association owned the land. The investors had no idea what the vineyard manager was doing. But the many retired teachers I know were upset when they heard how their savings were degrading their watershed.

In another case, after a six-year fight, Russian Riverkeeper forced design changes at one of the largest proposed bank armoring projects in the watershed. We hope that our success in this high-profile fight will get landowners and county and state officials to appreciate the importance of natural bank stabilization, and find a balance between protecting vulnerable vineyards and the need for healthy riparian areas.

Industry trends of consolidation and venture investment create enormous pressure on winemakers to focus on profit margins. But many winemakers in the watershed are reaching back to tradition and prioritizing stewardship.

At Russian Riverkeeper we have high hopes for continual improvement from the wine industry. In the last five years we have seen a lot of positive action by many in the industry. We will always keep our eye out for problems, continue to work with our many friends in the industry and keep our minds focused on solutions. How can you help? That’s easy. Next time you are out buying wine, check the label or winery website to see how they farm. Many can and should boast of their good work. And please consider a nice glass of sustainably farmed and produced Russian River wine that even a fish could like!